Aymara yatiña?

Do you speak Aymara? I don't...yet. Today I had my first class on Aymara instruction focused on the alphabet and pronunciation of the letters. Aymara has 32 sounds and an alphabet developed from the Spanish pronunciation.

Most of the letters are equal to the Spanish pronunciation: a, ch, i, j, k, l, m, n, ñ, p, q, r, s, t, u,w, x, and y. Notice that there are only three vowels that are pronounced with roughly 4 sound variations.

The tricky part of Aymara is creating the breathing and skipping sounds represented by an additional "h" or " ' " respectively. It's really all about the placement of the letter on your tongue or throat. I am pleased to announce that my professor, Santiago, stated that I have perfect pronunciation! The "h" sound, as in "thantha" (old object or thing) is easy for me because it's similar to how we pronounce "the" in English. The use of the apostrophe is a bit more difficult. You kind of have to bounce between the letters as you say words, such as "p'akiña" (to break an object).

So that's what I'm working on right now. Later I get to learn words like "sarxarxapxañäni" (we are ready to leave for a trip). Oh, but you can also spell it like "sarjjarjjapjjañäni"...but the use of "x" is more linguistically economical.

On my way back from my class, I met a young British student who is teaching English in the small town of Chucuito (the picture below depicts the town's main plaza). On Thursday we are going to meet up and he is going to give me a tour of the area. He knows a lot as he has been translating tour brochures for the municipality.

Tomorrow's a holiday in Peru, but not for me! The lovely collection of decentralization legislation awaits me ever so patiently on my desk. I have to learn how to say "not so fun" in Aymara...

Mmmmmm...cow heart

My first week is coming to a close here in Puno. I had a very relaxing Saturday with a trip to the local street market and shopping downtown. In the evening, I went out for dinner with three house-guests from Mexico, the US, and Japan. It was a very fun evening...though we struggled with the poor Japanese girl. She hardly speaks English and even less Spanish. She's been in Peru for two months studying the behavior of alpaca in accordance to what type of vegetation they eat. Yea...she gets a lot of interesting looks from the locals.

I enjoy the balance of my housing situation. On one hand, I am treated like a member of the family. The kids invite me out for meals and weekend parties. Jeny and I often sit and chat over breakfast. She has introduced me to typical cuisine. For example, this morning I had a very soupy rendition of oatmeal mixed with orange juice. It was very good...and I normally HATE oatmeal! On the other hand, I get to meet a lot of interesting tourists that stay for a day or two. After they go out on a daily excursion to the ruins or lake Titicaca, I can accompany them downtown for a meal or a drink. I am definitely not lonely, and that has been a nice change from the first week in Lima.

Today was also quite fun. Juan invited me to a bbq at his house. It was a bit different than the asados I am used to with my argentine friends. There was SO much food! Meat and veggies and salads and drinks and bread! My two favorite dishes were the salad made of apple, celery, and mayo and the best meat....cow heart. I know you're all thinking "GOO!" (or maybe just Wiggins hehehe) Seriously, seriously, it was fabulous! I arrived at around 12, the food was served between 2-3, and afterwards we played a typical family game called "sapo" or frog. I left around 5pm completely stuffed. The funny thing is, though, that I didn't eat that much. Since I have arrived in Puno a week ago, I haven't been able to eat a lot of food at once. At the high altitude, digestion takes a bit longer. But I'm not worried...I think the cow heart will hold me over for the night! :)

Puno...baby it's cold outside

I HAVE ARRIVED!!!!! I have now settled in the place that I will call home for the next 9 months. Puno is just as beautiful, tranquile, colorful, and cold as I remember. My host family has welcomed me with open arms. Jeny and her children (ages 16, 22, 25...I'm horrible with names right now) welcome tourists into their home, but they have truly treated me as a member of their household and have ensured that I feel comfortable with them.

This morning I saw the GORGEOUS Casa del Corrigedor (see the photo below). Juan, my boss, and I sat down today to chat about the details of my work. I know he's going to see this blog and be very angry that I call him my boss. hehehe, lo siento Juan :) From the looks of things, I will be interning with the NGO Monday, Wednesday, and Friday in the city of Puno. On Tuesdays and Thursdays I will travel to the city of Chuquito (15 minute ride in combi) to take Aymara language and cultural classes. The rest of the week I will have time to work on my thesis. Additionally, I will be offering English "charlas" at the Universidad del Altiplano as well as to Jeny.

I've only encounter two unenjoyable realities of traveling to the sierras of Peru. First, it is REALLY COLD here. I'm talking brrrrrrrrrrrr. Showers are short, scarfs and gloves are the typical fashion, and I sleep under seven blankets. The sun is intense but it is still necessary to wear jackets and a layer or two extra at all times. Second, and this serves as a warning to all travelers: watch what you eat. I have been VERY lucky over the past few years of my travels, but today I was not that fortunate. Trying to enjoy a bit of food outside of the tourist zone, I ended up in the bathroom for a good hour. I will spare the details. After an herbal tea, the wonderful medication offered by the Mayo Clinic, lots of water, and rest I feel better. I learned my lesson. It's important to stay in the touristy areas because the food inspection is much better. A bit more expensive, but as they say in Spanish, vale la pena.

Hasta Luego Lima...Puno here I come!

My stay in Lima has come to an end. I'm pleased to say that I was able to accomplish what I hoped within the past 10 days. I've developed the necessary contacts within the Catholic University, the US Embassy, the National Council on Decentralization, and a leading NGO on rural development. Additionally, I have gained a good understanding of the perspective in Lima towards the situation I'm about to encounter down in the sierras.

I am definitely looking forward to Puno for the obvious reasons of wanting to begin my work. At the same time, to be completely honest, I am not a fan of Lima.

So before I go, in honor of my dear friend Alvaro, I would like to present you with a list simply called "I'm not going to miss"...
-the contamination that is completely palpable
-the fear of being mugged or pick pocketed (I do attribute a bit of my paranoia to the security briefing at the US Embassy)
-the taxi driver's insanse driving
-the combi (bus) to the university...you have to experience it yourself to understand
-seeing the sun only ONCE during my entire time here
-being slightly electrocuted every time I touch the hot water faucet in the shower
-trying to interpret what our Finnish housemate is saying...seriously, no one understands him and he won't slow down or shut up for that matter!
-having to take a taxi or a combi to get anywhere

Tomorrow I leave for Puno with my NGO coordinator, Juan Villegas by bus. He has been attending a conference here in Lima and so we planned to travel together. The trip will be split in two days. First, I will ride from Lima to Arequipa overnight (roughly 15 hours). In Arequipa we will stay with Juan's sister and I will have a chance to play "tourist" in the beautiful city center. On Tuesday we'll head out for the five hour trip to Puno.

Once I'm settled in Puno later next week I will post an update!

Visit to the United States Fortress...I mean Embassy

Having lived in Washington, D.C. during college, I always enjoyed walks down Embassy Row. The architecture of the embassies is truly a beautiful site to see. I think it is safe to say that this in not the case for the U.S. Embassy in Lima, Peru.

In 1993, Sendero Luminoso (The Shining Path) terrorist group car bombed the former U.S. Embassy. At the time it was located near the Plaza de Armas (where the Presidential Palace is located). After the attack, the U.S. relocated on the edge of the city and took the opportunity to build up a fortress that screams "don't even dare bomb this baby."

This morning I arrived at the Embassy for a security briefing. Overall security was very tight and I was escorted through the back hallways into the Cultural Affairs Office. There I was introduced to CA Officer, Paul Degler. We had a very nice chat. He beat me to Peru by only two weeks, and was very excited (though completely clueless) about the region where I will do my work.

After our chat, I was sent up to the security briefing. I sat in a room with, a DEA official, one State rep, two computer specialist contractors, and two marines.

Additionally, a very friendly gentleman presented himself and his wife. He said he was the Embassy's defense attache. As it turns out, he and I had actually met in D.C. at an election conference held at George Washington University in February. At the conference we just happened to sit next to each other and I had told him that I was a finalist for the Fulbright. He had been attending the seminar to learn a bit about Peruvian politics in preparation move to Lima to start his post.
...small world.

The security briefing presented information that was relatively boring. The process and the whole environment it presented, though, was extremely fascinating. I was enthralled by the security protection systems that is provided in Embassy staff houses as well as the Emergency Preparedness Planning. Each house has a safehaven with reinforced steel doors!!!

While I didn't get a cool security card (or reinforced doors for that matter), I'm excited to say that I am counted in as part of the Embassy community! I even got invited to join them in the marine house happy hours hehehe. It'd be a bit of a trip, but it's the thought that counts :)

Brrrrrr!

So a quick lesson for those of you who are geographically challenged. Currently, south of the equator, it is winter. In Lima the temperature is somewhere between 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and gets down to 40 degrees at night. Now, that's all good and dandy when you have heating in your house. In my case, without such a lovely amenity, it's kind of uncomfortable.

Now, moving from geography to anatomy class. What typically happens to the human body when it encounters a drastic change in temperature. If your response was "develops cold symptoms" you get a passing grade. Yes, folks, it's August and I am bundled up with a scarf, tissue paper, and decongestants in Lima, Peru...can't wait until next week when I am in the mountains and the evening temperature is a lovely 20 degrees.

"oh, but I thought you were from Europe!"

There was definitely a sense of disappointment in his voice when I broke the news that I lived in Argentina. I actually pulled off a convincing accent and got this Peruvian guy to think I was from Argentina. Hey I didn't lie...I did actually live in Argentina (I just happened not to mention the length of time). Yup, from Cordoba, capital. Of course I look European, I told him. My ancestors are from Germany like a lot of Argentine immigrants (did I mention this guy was really disappointed that I wasn't from somewhere more exotic like England or Sweden?)

"and your friends that are here with you, they are European, right?"

¡Si! I was enjoying a night out in the discotecas/boliches with my current housemates and their friends: 3 Spaniards, 1 Israeli, 1 German, 1 Canadian, 2 Peruvians, 1 Fin, and me the token American...I mean Argentine :)

"so how do you all communicate?"

We all speak Spanish! Well, except the Israeli...he seems to not even want to try, but it's okay because that way I can keep up with my English.

I'm not a fan of being picked up in clubs, so if it's going to happen while I'm abroad I might as well have a little fun, right? :)

Same time zone, different season

¡Hola desde Lima, Peru!

I have just taken a shower and had a cup of coffee...so I think it is fair to say that I have settled in my new home. True from the start, this trip is definitely an adventure. I got to the airport very early with my mom yesterday afternoon. After saying goodbye in the gorgeous A terminal of Reagan National, I went through security in the B terminal.

Because my parents trained me well in checking and rechecking my flight status I noticed that my trip to Miami had been "cancelled". A tad bit on edge, I approached the AA desk for the earlier Miami departure and crossed my fingers. The attendant actually whispered to me that he was only able to switch about 10 people on the earlier flight and sent me running (literally) out to the baggage claim to pick up my luggage and recheck it in at the AA desk.

After a lovely airport jog with my not-so-light suitcases, I was rebooked on the earlier flight, my luggage was checked, I returned through the security check-in, and sat in row 7. In the end, the plane left only 5 minutes before my originally scheduled flight.

So, the only other impressive highlight worth mentioning was the fact that Hulk Cogan (sp?) was in the Miami airport. The man stands out like a sore thumb on stereoids.

Okay, I need to unpack and get to know my surroundings a bit. I must say, it is nice needing to wear my winter jacket again:)

Pre-Departure...Withstanding the heat of D.C.

HACE CALOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So I think it is fair to say that I'm really looking forward to the cold weather that awaits me in the mountains of Peru. Right now I'm waiting to have my visa cleared by the Embassy of Peru in Washington, D.C. It's a lovely 95 degrees with humidity "a full".

My flight leaves from Reagan National on Tuesday, August 8th and I arrive in Lima at the crack of dawn (or before???). I've been told to look for a guy who will have my name on a white board in the airport. As of now, I plan to stay in Lima for roughly 2-3 weeks to get things done with my contacts at the Catholic University of Lima as well as the National Council on Decentralization.

If you'd like to see the casita that I will be staying at for the first weeks, check out their website : http://www.geocities.com/miki_dg