The odd couple

What do you get when you mix an inexperienced, radical leftist Aymara mayor with an extremely conservative, Opus Die Bishop? I am not quite sure yet, but my guess is that its not going to blend well.

I have returned to the provincial capital of Juli in Chucuito, a province about two hours east of the city of Puno. Currently, I am living on a farming complex called Fondo Palermo. It is the center for the Institute on Rural Education, a service of the Prelature of Juli. The members of the institute support rural development by working with the region's Aymara peasants in training to improved skills and knowledge of farming, leadership, solar power, nutrition, literacy, microfinanzing, human rights, etc. Their farm also serves to host visiting researchers (like moi) and help facilitate connections in the rural areas of the province.

My housing situation is rather comfortable, considering where I am located. I am treated to a private room, equipped with a bed, two tables, a gas stove, and a private bathroom with a solar powered shower. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of sun during this month, so I am not sure how much I will get to enjoy solar power energy.

An interesting sidenote...the previous occupant of the room was a Japanese archeologist. He was certain that the farm rested on top of an archeological goldmine. The institute's staff thought he was crazy. I hope they don't think the same of me!!!!!!!!

I share the farm grounds with cows, guinea pigs, sheep, and a couple of dogs. Oh, and the institute also provides lunch daily. I am treated to a health portion of potatoes, chuño, and soup whenever I wish. Otherwise, I have crackers and oranges in my room. Diet a-la countryside.

This week I will begin my focus group and interview work in the rural community of Kelluyo, about 2 hours southeast of the town of Juli. My first outing is scheduled for Sunday. Of course, I will have fun stories to share after that date!

An interesting observation that I alluded to at the beginning of this entry concerns the interesting dynamic of political power that is setting in for the province of Chucuito. Earlier this year, a new bishop was ordained to lead the Prelature of Juli. He is a member of Opus Die and has already demonstrated great conviction to change the face of the Church in the region. Over the past 25 years, a very liberal and culturally-conscientious group of priests and sisters, under the guidance of the former bishop, improved the relationship between the peasant Aymara community and the Church. Notably, it was the previous bishop who played a huge role in the attempted negotiation processes in Ilave before, during and after the lynching of the mayor.

I am willing to put GOOD money on the efforts taking a complete 180 in the next years. The new bishop has stated that the role of the Church is to provide the faith, not social services to the population. He has also ordered his priests to refrain from saying the mass in Aymara as he has called it a "pagan language". Sadly, this is a region with minimal NGO and governmental presence to support depressed conditions of health, education, and development needs. The expanse of services provided by the Church, including my host foundation, The Institute on Aymara Studies, as well as the Institute on Rural Education, may soon find themselves without funding and simply go under leaving a vaccum of support in the region.

As if that was not enough, enter the new mayor of Juli, Eugenio Barbaito Constanza of the Andean Rebirth Party is going to make things pretty interesting. He is an extremist Aymara leader with very little political experience, but a strong sense of cultural ideology. I met with him briefly during his first week on the job, and will have an interview with him this coming Wednesday. He dislikes speaking in Spanish, but I believe he will make an exception with me.

I have a feeling that the mayor and bishop are going to mix like oil and water...it's going to be REALLY interesting!